Teach My Dog to Come Part 2

dog training | dogs

Please read part one of this article: Teach My Dog to Come

Dogs often have poor generalization skills. The environment, your body language, your tone of voice, and other factors are all an important part of the cue to come when called for your dog. You must now “take your show on the road.� Move to another room in your house, then another, then your back yard, then your front yard, and so on, increasing difficulty as slowly as possible. Keep your dog on lead and start from the beginning of the procedure. That’s right, go back to using your treat magnet. You are likely to find that your dog progresses through the steps faster in each new environment.

After you have worked in several different environments, including ones that have distractions like children and food, there are a few games you can play in increase your dog’s recall skills. In one game, have two identical types of treats or toys. You may keep your dog’s leash on but let it dangle, or remove it. Be sure to be indoors or in a fenced area.

Toss your first toy or highly visible treat a short distance away from you with your dog watching and tell him to “get it.� As soon as he picks up the item, cue him to come. As soon as he turns toward you, toss the other item between your legs (for most dogs) or behind you (for very big dogs). Your dog should run between your legs or right next to you when you call him. Repeat several times, but quit before your dog gets tired.

You can also have two people with treats or tug toys and call the dog between you. Reward when your dog comes and then the other handler will call him again. Or have one person hold the dog and the other run away, shaking a toy and calling the dog. This is called a restrained recall and often stimulates a dog to run very quickly to the owner, especially if the “holder� cheers the dog on.

When you are practicing recalls by yourself or with someone else (but not during the two toys game), sometimes gently take hold of your dog’s collar with one hand before rewarding with a treat or toy from the other hand. This will help you in the event that your dog needs to come under dangerous circumstances. Do not reach out and reward your dog far away from you. Require that he comes closer and allow you to grab the collar. Otherwise your dog may learn to do the “duck and run,� (grab the treat, then duck and run away from you again).

Eventually, take your dog on leash and give your come command in very distracting situations, such as when your dog is playing with another dog. Expect to revert back to the “treat magnet� method at first, although you may not have to. Make sure that you allow your dog to go back to playing after being rewarded.

Never call your dog to you to do negative things. Don’t call dogs when it’s time to get a bath, or when you intend to punish him (punishment has no place in a good dog training program anyway).

Eventually, you will want to use your cue to come when your dog is off lead and not playing a recall game with you. Try it first in an enclosed area such as your house or hard. Be sure to praise and treat extensively when your dog is successful. If your dog does not come, go to him take him by the collar, and use your cookie magnet. Then put your dog on lead for the next few tries.

Dogs are constantly learning. Once your dog is coming reliably the first time you call him, you may think your recall training is over. But if you get sloppy, and don’t reward at least some of the time, or you begin calling several times before the dog comes, your dog will unlearn the correct behavior.

If your dog is not food motivated, you can do these training exercises with a toy. Be prepared to tug or play with the toy as a reward.

By following these steps, you should build a strong reinforcement history of coming when called for your dog. This will make your dog much safer and more enjoyable to be around.

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Tottie's picture

They are constantly learning!

Though not all the right things! Ours is finding new places to hide - in his old age he just doesn't like being left out of the house when we go out - so now we have to play hide and seek to get him! Good blog.

Does he have to be left outside?

Can he stay inside when you leave... perhaps confined to the kitchen or bathroom or something?

If not, try making going outside when you leave extremely rewarding. Get a kong and stuff it with wet dog food and freeze it, or fill it with Peanut Butter or Kong Stuffer. Buy an everlasting type of treat, new extra large biscuit, etc. Make sure it's a safe item, something consumable or indestructible. And only offer the dog the item outside when you're going to leave him out.

My now-deceased mixed breed dog turned into a 50 pound sack of potatoes whenever we were leaving for work and had to put her in her kennel. She would crawl under the coffee table and go limp. I started giving her goodies in her crate and she became a dog that would dash to her kennel on command. Eventually I only had to give her a plain biscuit in there, but the association between the crate and great stuff had been made.

Good luck!

Brenna
Blog at Writing UP!
Brenna Fender's Blog

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