October in Wasdale

The Sun had gone down behind the western hills as I cooked my evening meal of sausages and rice on the green at Wasdale Head. I was really only here by accident and while it is probably true to say that no-one comes to Wasdale for the weather - apart from the odd duck that is - the weather was why I was here.

My original plan to walk through the Lake District from Coniston to Keswick over about 3 days had been scuppered when unseasonal mid october sunshine had triggered a late rush of people wanting to go youth hostelling meaning that at least one of the hostels for that trip was full. I know I should have booked in advance but as the half term holidays were not for another week I figured it would be OK - that's why I was coming at this time of year. Anyway I wasn't complaining - if I'm going to kip in the back of my car for 2 nights then Wasdale Head is the place to do it!

The idea of car camping isn't new but it makes sense on a short trip where putting up and taking down the tent is just an added headache and bearing in mind that the weather isn't normally so kind up here, the car offers rather more protection from the elements. There were a few other occupied vehicles here tonight and it will hopefully remain a free night as long as people don't leave any mess when they go.

It was now decidedly chilly so I sat inside to eat my tea facing ahead to where the outline of the Wastwater Screes was now black against a clear evening sky that promised more fine weather for tomorrow. A couple of hours earlier I'd been up on that ridge having stopped off at Eskdale for a walk to break the long journey to Wasdale. It was a short walk but an impressive one.

I'd left the car park by the public toilet in Eskdale village and set off along the Forestry Commission track which led up through the woods and left down a lane past where a farmer was rebuilding the stone wall. After crossing the minor road to Miterdale I set off through the charming Miterdale Forest. The walk can be shortened by setting off up the lane past the school which brings you out here. The way through the beech forest with the late Sun slanting through the autumnal colours was a delight and soon led uphill crossing a forestry road several times and passing a seat in a clearing dedicated to someone called Neil Cannon - if this was his favorite spot he had good taste. The views over this peaceful corner of the Lake District to the Irish Sea now appeared beyond the woodland.

For the next quarter of an hour a path led through coniferous forest on a carpet of old pine needles before suddenly emerging on open grassy fellside with views north over the West Cumbria Plain and to the Western Fells. A path led to the right and climbed steadily towards Whin Rig over somewhat boggy terrain that was hard going in places and much less enjoyable that the forest.

Reaching the summit though there was suddenly space, the view of the spectacular mountains around the head of Wasdale and the distant sounds of the valley far below. The best views though are from a little lookout which juts out over the edge of the Screes and a short arete leading down towards the precipice perhaps no more than half a mile on from Whin Rigg.

Here I looked straight down to Wastwater which appeared like glass below the plunging abyss of stones. Tiny dots of cars were parked by the road on its far shore, their occupants gaping in wonder at the 1500 foot high wall of stone opposite and the tiny figure tottering around with a camera on the edge of oblivion...

Leaving Illgill Head for another day I set off back towads Whin Rigg's double summit across the slightly damp tussock country that belies the tremendous drop off to Wastwater. Though lacking the drama of the Screes the view to Harter Fell and its vicinity from a small tarn here is also worthy of a photo.

The Sun reflected off the glittering Irish Sea as I returned down to re enter the forest for my walk back to Eskdale. I follow a different path back through the darkening woods near the car park and in a patch of rhododendron forest find what I last expected - a Japanese garden complete with oriental shrubs, trees and small wooden bridges spanning a small stream. The vivid reds and purples of some of the trees were quite beautiful in the deep greens of the evening forest and slanting golden sunlight.

The garden was actually first built in 1913 and had fallen into a state of overgrown chaos before being restored. I have been visiting this area since I was a kid and I only found out about it today!

>>> Here is day two of October in Wasdale >>>